Cheat Sheet: Marrakech (and beyond), Morocco
Fabulous riads/hotels, exotic dining, top personal shopper and more
Heavily influenced by the Arab Dynasties, Marrakech is a mystical, "spicy" city, with hundreds of medieval mosques & kasbahs, impressive forts, palatial ruins and bustling souks.
The first time I visited I felt a bit frenzied—not knowing what to discover and explore next! The city's real delight lies in wandering the lively bazaars and beautiful secluded side streets ... where I bought exquisite goodies for both my home and wardrobe. If this is your gig, I highly recommend personal shopper, Laetitia, as the extensive souks seem to stretch on forever, a warren–like maze of cubby–hole shops selling local treasures.
Summer months are unbearably hot and claustrophobic. October and November are sunny and warm by day and cool and comfortable by night as is typically starting March thru May.
If you are staying a short time and only in the Medina, do venture out to La Palmeraie area for lunch at least! And if you have time, get into the Atlas Mountains as a two-night side trip. Gorgeous…
In the Medina
Riad Farnatchi
For a secluded and sultry haven in the middle of the bustling Medina, slip through the discreet door of the exclusive Riad Farnatchi, a nine-suite hotel set within five traditional courtyard townhouses. This is a riad with wow factor, and it's ultra-romantic (don't bring the kids). It is one of only a few Riads ... read the file on Riad Farnatchi
Talaa 12
If you're off to Marrakech to soak up the atmosphere of the souks and meander the alleyways of the old city, this intimate, 8-room riad in the heart of the Medina is a very good option. Geetika Jain, a well-heeled traveler and on my Insiders, recently stayed at Talaa 12 and named it a real cut above other riads ... read the file on Talaa 12
Riad Tarabel
New in 2009, Riad Tarabel has an enviable location for Souk lovers; minutes from the famous, very touristy square Jemaa el Fna and the souks. However, step inside and you will be transported miles away from the hectic dirty center ... read the file on Riad Tarabel
Riad Noir D'Ivoire
Exquisitely furnished with an African vibe inspired by owner Jill Fetchmann's travels throughout Morocco and Swaziland, the Riad is a serene escape from the dusty streets of Marrakech, yet only 10-15 minutes through the souks to the main square of Jemma al Fna ... read the file on Riad Noir D'Ivoire
In La Palmeraie (20 min. outside the city)
Ksar Char Bagh
Like we did, when you arrive at Ksar Char-Bagh, you may feel as if you have accidentally wandered into some Moroccan prince's holiday home: the entryway builds up the high drama which awaits in the interiors and exterior spaces here. A truly dreamy spot for a celebration or party. One of my favorite places to stay worldwide ... read the file on Ksar Char-Bagh
Jnane Tamsna
This was the first place I ever stayed in Morocco years ago—in fact, it was the first stylish, upscale retreat in the Palmeraie, masterminded by talented owner Meryanne Loum Martin. Jnane Tamsna is totally serene, with nine acres of gorgeous herb and vegetable gardens, indigenous plants, olive trees and date palms. The hotel comprises many villas ... read the file on Jnane Tamsna
Others in Marrakech and beyond
La Mamounia
La Mamounia is a legend in Marrakech, La Grande Dame de glamour of the 1920s, attracting the great and good who wanted to stay in the city: Winston Churchill called it the “most lovely spot in the whole world.” After three years and over £100m of renovations, she is back ... read the file on La Mamounia
Kasbah Bab Ourika
Beyond the hustle and hassle of Marrakech lies the rest of Morocco: mysterious, magical and ripe for exploring! Bab Ourika—in the Ourika Valley, a lush green gateway to the majestic Atlas mountains—opened formally Spring 2009 and is on its way to becoming one of the region's most loved properties ... read the file on Bab Ourika
Dar Ahlam
“This is the stuff of Lawrence of Arabia. Ouarzazate is the gateway to the desert, and Dar Ahlam is truly a ‘wow' place to stay on your way,” says Insider Miriam Azoulay, a Moroccan who resides in New York ... read the file on Dar Ahlam
Kasbah du Toubkal
“Berber hospitality at its best,” says Insider Lauren Steventon who recently stayed here and loved exploring the Atlas Mountains region. “The Kasbah du Tubjal is a MUST. It's possible to visit just for a day trip from Marrakech, but to fully experience this unique place, you really should stay a night or two,” she says ... read the file on Kasbah du Toubkal
Kasbah Tamadot
Tucked into the tiny village of Asni, there's a magical walled building that's been transformed into Sir Richard Branson's Moroccan retreat. A former Berber chieftan's private palace, Kasbah Tamadot was discovered by Branson on one of his famous ballooning expeditions and is now a 24 bedroom (+ suites and tents) hideaway ... read the file on Kasbah Tamadot
WHERE NOT TO STAY
With so much press hype, gorgeous photos and chitter chatter, it's confusing where to stay, and where NOT to stay. See my BEWARE files to be in-the-know about where to avoid ...
WHERE TO DINE
Restaurant File: Marrakech
There are plenty of restaurants here but be aware that the sexy, stylish places tend to have mediocre food; top hotels and riads like those in my files have fantastic quality cuisine. See my Marrakech restaurant file for top picks that won't disappoint.
WHERE AND WITH WHOM TO SHOP
Top Personal Shopper: Laetitia Trouillet
I so thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon with well-known personal shopper, the French born, internationally savvy, Laetitia Trouillet, I cannot recommend her more highly. There is quite a lot of top-notch quality and design from interiors to jewelry to be snapped up, but will not be found without her expert navigating and connections ... read the file
Fabulous little shops and finds
When we ventured out shopping, we preferred having by our sides a Souk walker—it can be quite daunting without (Personally, I'd not take children under 12 into the souks—ifor any reason. You'll see ...). Moroccan personal shoppers are posers—they are after nothing but commissions from ripping you off. Go only with a highly recommended shopper as mentioned above.
Here are a few places below in case you can't get an appointment with Laetitia and decide to venture out solo:
Atelier Moro (near Riad El Fenn)—specialist items that will not be found elseswhere.
Creation et Passementerie—Youssef el Alaoui—gorgeous candles, ceramica, bathroom accessories, silver platters and much more.
Place Vendome (Gueliz)—The well-known place for leather goods; I'm unimpressed with the leather, but do like the Villebruquin men's and boy's bathing suits for $50 instead of retail $220!
Atika (Gueliz)—Good quality Todds loafers knock-offs for a fraction of the price.
Chateau des Souks—old and new rugs, export made easy. Plenty of styles – an experience unto itself. Photos of everyone from Hugh Grant to Bill Clinton with the owner adorn the walls. Safe place to view and buy gorgeous rugs.
Boutique Bel Hadj (in the Medina)—Bari, the elderly characterful owner sits in this tiny den crafting truly amazing necklaces with top quality stones like turquoise, rose, jade … funny thing is, hotels like the Amanjena sell his necklaces in their boutique by the dozens at 4-6xs his prices!
Akbar Delights (in the Medina)—intricate Kaftans, very stylish. Expensive.
Mustapha Blaoui (El Pacha)—High ceiling interiors. Only shop with room after room of large pieces, some of which are very nice.
INSIDER TIPS
Using credit cards is trickier here than in most countries. Go for cash whenever possible which you'll have to round up at the start being cash points often have no cash inside!
Hire a Historical guide for at least 4 hours. We thought Mustapha was very good and utterly a lovely man—like everyone else who has written about him! Alternatively, a good hotel/riad will arrange someone they rate highly for you.
See Badii Palace in Marrakech and its winter residents, the nesting storks.
Party at Le Comptoir and Jud Mahal in Hivernage.
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Topics:
Shops, Gifts, Finds
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Epicurean
,
Travel
Geography: Morocco
Tags: riads, hotels, villas, personal shopper, camel rides, dining, restaurants, shopping
Geography: Morocco
Tags: riads, hotels, villas, personal shopper, camel rides, dining, restaurants, shopping
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