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Sicily, Italy: My Insider Tips

An at-a-glance guide to enjoy the best of Sicily, Italy


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Sicily
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If you’re looking for something different in Italy, Sicily is a super alternative to the traditional hotspots … less crowded, a little rougher around the edges, but easier to navigate and discover its gems. I tapped my Sicilian Insider Rossella Beaugie for her top picks of what not to miss, from stunning sea views and delicious cafés to the black sand beaches and a night climb up the smoldering volcano, Stromboli …

Villages

Cefalu: The cathedral of this beautiful medieval town is home to one of the finest examples of mosaic art in Europe. The town’s red-tiled roofs are overshadowed by a huge rocky outcrop, La Rocca, on top of which is an old Saracen fortress and the remains of a Greek Temple of Diana. The long sandy beach is a favorite, and the views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, the coastline of Sicily and Aeolian Islands are breathtaking.

Ortygia: The ancient heart of Syracuse, once the most powerful and influential city in Magna Graecia. Stroll its pretty streets, sip an aperitif as the sun goes down, and marvel at the fabulous Duomo, built on the remains of a Greek temple which is still visible. The sea here is great for swimming.

Scopello: a tiny hamlet tucked away near the Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve, between Palermo and Trapani. There is a 12th century fortified farmhouse and a couple of restaurants with stunning sea views. My ideal day is a nice walk in the Zingaro down to one of the little bays for a picnic with a pane cunzano (bread with fresh tomatoes, anchovies and oregano), and a refreshing swim.

Noto, Modica, Ragusa Ibla and Scicli: The Baroque towns of the Noto Valley (an UNESCO World Heritage Site), four delightful towns built in late-Baroque style after the devastating earthquake of 1693. Modica is also famous for its chocolate production … delicious!

The medieval villages in the Madonie Mountains: Castelbuono, Polizzi Generosa, Petralia Soprana and Gratteri, all with spectacular views, fresh air, a nice slow pace. Lots of old churches and palazzos to discover, many dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Then there is the food! Little trattorie serving hearty mountain fare … mushrooms, grilled meat, wild boar, cheeses … a nice change from the fish restaurants on the coast.

Beaches

Vendicari Nature Reserve (south of Noto): popular not only with beach lovers but also migrating birds and flamingos which stop here. The beaches are beautifully unspoilt, uncrowded, and the water is as clean as can be.

Lo Zingaro Nature Reserve: several little beaches and bays … you’ll have to walk a little along the rugged coastal paths, but it will be worth every minute. Stunning sea views, wild flowers in spring, craggy cliffs, and pebbly beaches with transparent water.

San Vito: one of the best beaches in Sicily, about a mile of white sand and the water is many different shades of blue. Best in May, June, the first half of July, September and October … very crowded in August. San Vito is also famous for its ice creams and excellent fish trattorie.

La Foce del Fiume Belice Nature Reserve: reach it from Marinella di Selinunte, near the Greek Archaeological Site. Generally uncrowded, golden sands, shallow water, and the added bonus of the excellent La Pineta restaurant … try the lobster!

Aeolian Islands: Beaches with a difference … soft black sand and pebble beaches created from lava stone from these volcanic islands. The sea around the Aeolian Islands is wonderfully clean and an intense blue.

Sights

Segesta and Selinunte: better preserved examples of Greek temples are hard to find anywhere, even in Greece. Segesta has a Greek theatre perched on top of a hill and concerts and plays are held here in the summer … the views are stunning. Go in the early evening and watch the sun set behind the temples …magical. Selinunte is a vast archaeological site flanked on either side by beaches.

Palermo: Its markets, cathedral and old center … a fascinating potpourri of architectural styles, bustling Arabic-style food markets, many churches, restaurants and bars. All my friends die for the local ice creams and delicious sweets!

Taormina: one of the jewels of the Mediterranean … unbelievably pretty. Sit at a café in the Belvedere and enjoy incredible views down to the lovely coastline and across to the smoking cone of Mount Etna. A cable car takes you down to a series of beaches, coves and islands. My kids love getting on the stage of the Roman theater (where Woody Allen filmed the opening scene of Mighty Aphrodite) and pretending to act!

Norman Cathedral of Monreale: One of the great cathedrals in Europe with a wonderful cloister … fabulous Byzantine mosaics, Arabic figurative art and Norman architecture… a must-see.

Experiences

A helicopter trip: over Mount Etna and to the Aeolian Island to see the highest active volcano in Europe from above, plus a magnificent view of most of Sicily, then off to the Aeolian Islands for a natural fireworks display by the smoldering volcano, Stromboli. Before flying back to Sicily, stop in Salina for a massage and aperitif at the Capofaro Hotel … the perfect birthday or anniversary gift.

Night climb of Stromboli: Take a guided hike up the volcano for an unforgettable experience, the night sky lit by fluorescent magma, followed by a rose-colored sunrise … then slide down the ashes to a deserted beach and swim in the blue, blue sea.

Explore Mount Etna in a 4×4: discover first-hand what makes Etna tick on a tour with an expert vulcanologist … your four-wheel drive will take you right off the beaten path.

Trekking in the Madonie Mountains: rising more than 6,000 feet, these majestic mountains offer excellent walking, hiking and climbing opportunities, dramatic views and the freshest air.

Sweets tasting: Cannoli and cassata in and around Palermo; granite in and around Catania and Messina (my favorites are almonds and mulberries in Salina), very seasonal. Gelato al Pistacchio or al Nero ‘Avola (rich chocolate cakes) … the Sicilians have a seriously sweet tooth.

Special access

Visit and dine: in a private aristocratic palazzo in Palermo, such as Palazzo Gangi, where the sumptuous ball scene in the movie The Leopard was filmed, or Palazzo Lanza Tomasi, owned by the son of Guiseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard.

Get married: in a private villa with the best Sicilian catering, wine, photographer and attention to details, see our Expert Connect file.

Watch out for …

… the new Rocco Forte Hotel, Verdura Resort, opening later in 2009!

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Page Title: Sicily, Italy: My Insider Tips, An At-a-Glance Guide to the Best of Sicily | Spire

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Description: If you’re looking for something different in Italy, Sicily is a super alternative to Tuscany & Umbria … less crowded, a little “rougher” around the edges, but easier to navigate and discover its gems. Neglected villages and attractions are being restored, new hotels and private villas are opening, wines improving, and utterly amazing food … the best I’ve had consistently anywhere in Europe. I tapped my Sicilian Insider Rossella Beaugie for her top picks of Sicily’s must-see attractions.

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