Fuor d'Acqua

The word of the day here is "fresh." Every night around 8 PM, the daily catch arrives and it's best if you get there early to get first dibs, just as the well-heeled locals that frequent here do. In a city where meat seems like the cornerstone of the cuisine, Four d'Acqua is a breath of fresh air—irresistible, invigorating Mediterranean air. (Florence is only about an hour from the coast after all.) The waitstaff here always seems delighted to offer their recommendations, but the fact is that if you're a seafood lover like I am, you can't go wrong with anything on the menu. The raw dishes, like raw scampi carpaccio, are just as tempting—and delicious—as what comes off the grill.

Fuor d'Acqua
Via Pisana, 37/r
Florence
Italy
+39 055 222 2999

Old world classiness meets modern, chic sensibility at Sant'Agostino 23. In the light-filled dining room, there are bold images painted on the walls, which are rimmed by old-school, peeling wood panels. You find that same tradition shot through with contemporary flare in each dish. Chef Mirko Innocenti works wonders with Chianina beef, which comes from one of the oldest breeds of cattle. Italy isn't necessarily where you'd think to order a burger, but his patty is not to be missed. And the lighter fare makes this a great spot for a leisurely lunch.

Sant'Agostino 23
Via Sant’Agostino 23/r
Florence 50125
Italy
+39 055 210 208

This is the kind of place where Verdi would have come for dinner—there's the drama, intensity and the stirring sounds of opera can even be heard when the kitchen door swings open. La Cucina del Garga, which sits in the ground floor a fourteenth century palazzo, is owned by Florentines Giuliano Gargani and his wife, Sharon Oddson, who originally opened the spot in 1979 in a much less majestic space. But their food was so inspiring that it became a regular stop for locals and a must-try for foodies who visit. Garga himself is an artist in many senses—not only does he whip up traditional Tuscan cuisine with the fresh-from-the-garden vegetables and herbs and glistening olive oil, he's also one of the many painters whose vibrant, swirling images adorns the walls of the the dining room. Like what you try? If you'll be in Florence for a few days, make sure you ask about the cooking classes. If they've really got you smitten, ask about the culinary tours they book. We can't think of better guides to the Tuscan culinary landscape.

La Cucina del Garga
48R Via del Moro
Florence
Italy
+39 055 239 8898
garga@fol.it

Nobody should visit Florence without dedicating at least one night to an enoteca experience. Florence's famed wine bars give you the option to nibble on bite size morsels or order multi-course meals, sampling glasses of exquisite vintages from Tuscany and beyond all the while. Enoteca Pinchiorri comes highly recommended as one of the finest of its type, not least because it boasts three Michelin stars. But even if you come for the grand countryside estate-style setting and the meticulously prepared food, you'll definitely stay for the wine list. It is nothing short of epic, and no less thrilling than the ancient Roman adventure stories.

Enoteca Pinchiorri
87R Via Ghibellina
Florence
Italy
+39 055 242 777